A Blow to Wine Snobs - Cheap Wine Wins Best Wine in California

[spunkmaster]

A Blow to Wine Snobs

By Thomas Lifson

It isn't exactly David slaying Goliath, but an equally unexpected victory has stunned the California wine industry. The cheapest wine in California just won top honors in one of the top wine competitions. When the national media catches-up, you will see this news elsewhere.

"Two Buck Chuck" is the nickname for the extremely inexpensive wines sold exclusively in the Trader Joe's chain of grocery stores, which specialize in upscale foods at fairly downscale prices. Produced by Bronco Winery, part of the Franzia family's wine empire, Two Buck Chuck has roiled the domestic wine industry by putting out generally quite decent wines at a price everyone can afford. I have myself been a customer, by the case. Some I have used for cooking, some I have quaffed. I particularly have favored their Chardonnay. To me, a "good wine" is a wine that I enjoy.

But I never expected to read that Charles Shaw has won the California State Fair's Commercial Wine Competition as the best Chardonnay in California. Yet, that has just happened:


Shaw's California Chardonnay took first place for Best Chardonnay from California. To some in the clubby California wine community, that must seem like a Michelin's Red Guide giving three stars to a roadside hamburger stand.

The Chardonnay received 98 points, a double gold, with accolades of Best of California and Best of Class.
How is this possible? Several factors come into play here.


First, California has had a tremendous glut of Chardonnay grapes the past several harvests, with much excellent fruit simply rotting on the vines. Over-planting happened when Chardonnay became quite a fad some years ago, only to see consumers get somewhat tired of it and move on to other more interesting varietals, particularly Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Grigio. So Charles Shaw was able to get an adequate supply of good Chardonnay grapes at a low price.


Second, way too much Chardonnay on the market has been subjected to too much aging in young oak barrels, imparting an oaky flavor. That was the fad, stoked by certain well-known wine critics. Additionally, too many winemakers have utilized too much malolactic fermentation, producing a buttery flavor. For some reason, this, too, has been quite a fad. I prefer to taste grapes more than oak, and like a cleaner flavor in my white wines. So I have not bought a lot of expensive Chardonnay.


Third, Bronco Winery has done a fantastic job driving the costs out of wine making, using its purchasing leverage to obtain the lowest costs, and operating on a huge scale. And I say, God bless ?em. They must be awfully smart to be able to pull off this feat.

By comparison, Sunset Cellars, the tiny winery in which I am a partner (and which has won a number of top honors in this same wine competition) pays more than $2 a bottle for glass, corkage, and bottling costs, before we even begin to pay for the wine itself. Of course, we use top quality bottles and corks, and operate at such a small scale that we have no leverage at all on price. Our wines, which are hand-made, retail on average for about 10 times the cost of Two Buck Chuck. We also pay top dollar for the best grapes - no doubt at least ten times on average what Bronco pays for its Chardonnay grapes. (When we are able to get cheaper grapes of high quality, we charge less for our wine, by the way.)


Fourth, by selling directly to TJs, Bronco avoids the extra margin wholesale liquor distributors require. I am told that in states where Bronco is unable to get a liquor distribution license and has to use a wholesaler, the price goes to three dollars a bottle at retail. But this is based on industry gossip, and I can't cite any authority. I have only shopped for it in California, where the price is two bucks.


Fifth, the California State Fair Commercial Wine Competition is known for being one the less wine-snobby competitions.

The California State Fair competition is dismissed by some critics as representing broad-based consumer tastes rather than the palates of true wine connoisseurs. But [G.M. "Pooch"] Pucilowski, who has organized the competition for more than two decades, said he draws judges from a number of professions, including winemakers and restaurant owners.
Even considering all these factors, it is somewhat miraculous that Charles Shaw has won this award.


Incidentally, I fully agree with Bill Franzia of Bronco, who says:

"The restaurants are overcharging consumers for wine. If we could just get restaurants to sell wine at $10 a bottle, or $2.50 a glass, or less, heaven forbid. If I can sell 'em to Trader Joe's for $2 a bottle, and they can get five glasses out of it, you'd think they could sell it for $2.50 a glass and make consumers happy."

Generally speaking, restaurants sell wine at double the retail price, which makes it a luxury item with dinner. In some countries, like Italy, where wine is expected to be part of the meal, markups are much lower. Of course, this means raising food prices a bit to supply the extra income lost from wine, since many restaurants break even on food and make their real profits on the liquor sales. So the approach only works where most poeple expect to drink wine with their meals, or where a restaurant is able to make money on its food.


I hope that restaurants start taking Bill Franzia's advice. It would do the wine industry a lot of good if people could sample wines with their meals without spending $10 a glass for the privilege.


In the meantime, if you are in one of the states where Trader Joe's operates, you might consider picking up a case of their Chard - it makes for terrific summertime drinking.


And once you start enjoying Two Buck Chuck Chardonnay, give a try to some of the other fine wines out there. You will discover that there's a lot of interesting differences among various wines. There's no one "best" wine, but rather lots of interesting approaches to making this ancient and honorable beverage, including the approach of Bill Franzia, whom I enthusiastically salute.


Hat tip: Jeff Weinress

[Chio]

This reminds me of the Vodka taste test they did a short while ago. It's pretty funny how image plays so strongly into purchasing decisions.

[JP513]

I wouldn't call this "A blow to wine snobs" because it's not as though every great white or red wine of substantial pedigree was represented here . . . but this is still a significant victory for Charles Shaw. A validation of thir winemaking artistry and their commitment to both excellence and value. And that's a good thing.

I buy expensive wines with that have class, pedigree and tradition . . . but only have them for special occasion. For the most part, I drink wines that are affordable and very good. Charles Shaw's wines are not all good, but some wines, in some vintages, are very good indeed. I applaud their efforts to make good wine afford. Massive thumbs up for that.

[corvette]

where is serge at? lets here the comments

[Red Ezra]

I have heard good things about the two buck chuck wines - might have to try them - I like shiraz wines a lot lately

[JP513]

Originally Posted by Red Ezra

I have heard good things about the two buck chuck wines - might have to try them - I like shiraz wines a lot lately

Last year I bought his Shiraz and though I love the varietal, I think his Cabernet Sauvignon was better than his Shiraz . . .

[KRosh]

as it states in the article, the way two buck chuck works is that they buy leftover grapes. These are the same grapes that make some of the best wines out there. It is a total hit and miss. One season you can get the best wine money can buy from 2 buck Chuck then the next you get the worst wine you have ever tasted. It happens to be they received a nice batch of Grapes this time.

[uno]

I'm all about the Brunello.

[Mr Pheer]

I've been buying two buck chuck ever since I first heard about it 4 years ago

Wine isn't wine unless it comes in a box!

[$5 submissions]

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(/Shameless plug)

[uno]

Originally Posted by shermsshack

Wine isn't wine unless it comes in a box!

I hate to admit i've been to numerous parties like that.

[uno]

Originally Posted by $5 submissions

Just goes to show you that just because something is very affordable, it doesn't necessarily mean it is LOW QUALITY. The same applies for our services at http://www.webmasterlabor.com -- HIGH QUALITY mainstream content, SEO, and link building services at low rates.

(/Shameless plug)

That was completely shameless. Kudos.

[Peaches]

Isn't this pretty old news? I seem to remember at least 2 years ago when this was in the papers and on TV. We finally got TJ here in GA but I haven't been yet. I'll buy the 2 Buck Chuck though

I like what I like when it comes to wine - right now I'm enjoying a couple of cases of shiraz at $20 a bottle. But I've had some $9 a bottle I've loved and some $500 a bottle I've loved - and more expensive stuff I've hated ;)

I DO know in the casino last week they did NOT give me real Baileys Irish Cream. Cheap bastards.

[Tom_PM]

Best part of the article:

" To me, a "good wine" is a wine that I enjoy. "

How complicated we can make things!

[drjones]

Originally Posted by KRosh

as it states in the article, the way two buck chuck works is that they buy leftover grapes. These are the same grapes that make some of the best wines out there. It is a total hit and miss. One season you can get the best wine money can buy from 2 buck Chuck then the next you get the worst wine you have ever tasted. It happens to be they received a nice batch of Grapes this time.

Yea this is right.. my parents are hooked on the two buck chuck, and buy bottles by the case load.

Sometimes its good, sometimes its undrinkable. Very hit or miss.

[pornguy]

I find that very funny. Another thing that I like about the cali wine people, is that they hate the wines from Baja Mexico, but the funny thing is, the wines from Baja are winning awards from all over the world including France.

[JFK]

Originally Posted by PR_Tom

Best part of the article:

" To me, a "good wine" is a wine that I enjoy. "

How complicated we can make things!

its all in what your personal tastes are like

[D]

I've been touting 2 buck chuck as a solid wine for years... glad to see it finally grab some props.

[frostyimpressions]

I'm glad to see it's finally getting some recognition.

[DаrkJedi]

Originally Posted by corvette

where is serge at? lets here the comments

exactly my thoughts

[webair]

I thins theres an art to finding really great inexpensive wines actually

[JP513]

Originally Posted by uno

I'm all about the Brunello.

Oh, dawg . . . me too! But . . . last night I opened a bottle of the '99 Banfi Brunello, and it was shyte. $50 and 2+ years of patient ageing down the drain.

[Bell]

I wish I could find a vacation package for the wine country...

Nothing going on like that (that I could find) here in OHIO....

waaaaaaaaaa

~Bell (Patricia)

[Jace]

two buck chuck rocks, we get it ALL the time

[Axzar]

If you are ever in Atlanta, check the E 46th Street Deli, owner is Italian from Brooklyn, has the largest collection of Italian wine in GA. Great wine does not have to be expensive!

[ServerGenius]

countdown to serge aka winetalk

[BV]

i always liked that franzia box wine, perfect for taking out on the boat!

[SleazyDream]

i wana buy a case of it and give some to all my faorite wineoes!!!

12clicks
rex
Greg


they can't complain if it's the best california wine!!!!!!

[12clicks]

Originally Posted by SleazyDream

i wana buy a case of it and give some to all my faorite wineoes!!!

12clicks
rex
Greg


they can't complain if it's the best california wine!!!!!!

I'm pretty sure the three of us drink Red.
for me its red only and 2 buck chuck will never conquer that hill.

[potter]

the red sucks imo, the white i alright. those were the only two opions years and years ago (5-6 years). don't know what they have out now

[Peaches]

Originally Posted by Axzar

If you are ever in Atlanta, check the E 46th Street Deli, owner is Italian from Brooklyn, has the largest collection of Italian wine in GA. Great wine does not have to be expensive!

Another good place in Atlanta is Dixie Beverage. Tell them you know The Parodis. I swear you become a god/ess when you mention their name I had them order a case of some good Shiraz that I like (I'm sure the wine snobs wouldn't). It's been almost a year, another case came in and they called me to let me know and are holding it for me

They've also turned me on to some other good wines. They know my taste - I don't like oaky - I like fruity reds.

[DatingGold]

it tastes good but its not the best imo.. for $2 it definitely does taste better than some of the $80 wines

[WWC]

I love wine....drink in everyday! Opus One and all Shiraz are my favorite types...

[JP513]

Opus One is a blend of several different types/varietals and has sorta been considered to be of lesser quality in recent vintages.

U like big Aussie Shiraz? What producers do you like?

[Peaches]

Originally Posted by JP513

U like big Aussie Shiraz? What producers do you like?

I know this wasn't directed to me but Wolf Blass Gold Label is the $20 a bottle I've been sucking down.

[Bama]

"Some I have used for cooking, some I have quaffed."

I should start quaffing my coffee instead of just drinking it.

[JP513]

So I just tried this. I was never a big fan of Chardonnnay anyway, except that which comes from Burgundy . . . and this $3.29 Chard is excellent. I won't buy many US Chards anyway . . . but for this price I might buy it a little more. Very good. I just made crabcakes from scratch too. Perfect match!

[xcitecash]

its not a blow to wine snobs. A cheap wine can win any award they still will look down on it.

Here in the UK, Tesco's supermarket own brand £13.00 Champagne won the best Champagne award... but who really drinks anything but Crystal, Darling

its all bollocks

[spunkmaster]

Did anyone see the show on Vodka and caviar on the travel channel i think.

They had taste tests in vegas and blindfolded a bunch of people for the taste tests.

The cheap caviar and vodka (less then $20 each) won hands down over the $200 per can caviar and $300 per bottle vodka.

[jimmy-3-way]

Originally Posted by drjones

Yea this is right.. my parents are hooked on the two buck chuck, and buy bottles by the case load.

Sometimes its good, sometimes its undrinkable. Very hit or miss.

I've only had the undrinkable then.

If this shit is suitable for anything more than tie-dying tee shirts it'd be news to me.